Balancing Asymmetrical Shoulders in PatternMaster v5 and v6
PatternMaster v5 and v6 programs provide for the use of a right and left measurements chart. A set of measurements taken separately for the right and left sides of the body can be used to correct unbalanced or asymmetrical shoulders. The shoulder height setting can be used to raise or lower the shoulder point as needed. The shoulder height setting can be set as a global default for each measurement chart.
Note: The guide sheet generated for each style has a section on combining patterns drafted for the right and left sides of the body
- First, take your measurements and draft, print, and sew the patterns for the side of the body with the higher shoulder point.
- Try on your fit garment and pin the lower shoulder starting at the shoulder point, tapering to the neck to determine the necessary changes to the shoulder height setting.
- Look at the black lines in the first picture below. You can see the shoulder balance line dropping from the left shoulder to the right shoulder.
- To determine the change to make to the shoulder height setting, start with 1/4 inch (.6 cm) and pin from the shoulder point to the neck edge.
- If the balance line is still not level (or at least close), re-pin increasing the amount.
- Create and save a new measurement chart for the lower side reducing the shoulder height setting by the amount pinned.
- With the new measurement chart loaded, go the Fit Garments screen and choose Edit Fit Defaults in v6 or View/Set Defaults in v5.
- Set the shoulder height measurement. Check all of the desired garment types (blouses/tops/shirts, dresses, jackets, etc.) and save the defaults.
- You may want to drop the armhole depth setting just a bit for this chart. The armhole level is determined by the CF and CB lengths which must be the same for both charts.
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